What are you talking about Soldera?

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What are you talking about Soldera?

Soldera’s accusations towards the Consorzio and its Brunello producers published in “Corriere della Sera” are fantasy and can do a lot of damage

View of Montalcino

View of Montalcino

The nastiest thing is the accusing the Consorzio of having <<proposed a fraud, offering wine from others to be bottled as his own>>. This is ridiculous, the producers wanted to give him part of their production to help him in a difficult moment, creating a “Brunello della solidarietà” a Solidary Brunello and this is his reply? Is he not ashamed?

He creates doubts, talks of mysteries, when the only mystery is how miraculously barrel sand barrels of his precious Brunello have suddenly reappeared. At least 350 Hl it seems, not a demijohn ….at least 5 barrels for 50Hl, as the “Corriere della Sera” talks of 7.000 bottles per year. But hadn’t the vandalic act destroyed all of his wine? Are we maybe at the wedding at Cana?
Soldera accuses the Consorzio because it does not invest in the studies of control systems regarding the pureness of the Sangiovese for Brunello, but that is not true! The Consorzio has invested about 150.000 € in these studies, entrusting the to the major wine research centre in Italy, the one found in San Michele all’Adige. The researchers, directed by Prof. Mattivi have discovered a method of investigation and the Consorzio will present it during the next convention.


The method of investigation through the DNA, upon which Soldera insists so much, does not permit a sure check on the total production of the area as is very expensive (it seems around 500€ per analysis) and is unable to give quantitative results therefore distinguish the effect of the wood or the mistakenly added glassful from the deliberate addition of a demijohn full. Soldera should ask the professors at the Bordeaux or Montpellier universities,

T-shirt I love Montalcino

T-shirt I love Montalcino

as I have done, instead of talking only with the biology faculty in Siena.

We have all heard, in Italy and abroad, the opinions that are circulating regarding the vandalic act. I think that these have even reached Soldera and I can imagine that the hurt and worry him. Those whispers though do not authorize him to say that in Montalcino we can carry out the <<moltiplicazione dei pani e dei pesci>> the miracle of the seven loaves and fish or to spread a doubt that the Brunello producers are the senders of the vandalic act which has destroyed his wine. It is simply ridiculous considering the rapidity and thoroughness in the investigations have been carried out by the Carabinieri and the Magistratura. As Montalcino is one of the areas with the least amount of crime in Italy. As nobody, absolutely nobody has threatened him, or accused him up until now.
Up until now, that is, because he cannot slander the other producers for no reason and if he does do it, he must accept the consequences because none of us are prepared to be damaged or slandered without reason and without reacting.

Brought to you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini
Brunello producer – Casato Prime Donne Montalcino
These notes are written in a personal capacity

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2 Comments

  1. Rita Vignani Reply

    “The method of investigation through the DNA, upon which Soldera insists so much, does not permit a sure check on the total production of the area as is very expensive (it seems around 500€ per analysis)”

    The samples are not tested singularly. To guarantee the quality of a wine, only a representative number of samples can be tested under a general molecular traceability control plan. This cuts down the cost significantly. Furthermore the blog author doesn’t use the molecular testing of her own wines, thus, cannot refer correctly how much such a plan may cost. Please, refer directly to the serge-genomics or similar companies for prices.

    “and is unable to give quantitative results therefore distinguish the effect of the wood or the mistakenly added glassful from the deliberate addition of a demijohn full.”

    This is false; the accidental contamination cannot be detected; only addition of different varietal wines can be detected when exceeding 1%.
    The quantitative determination cannot be reached with any other method concerning the varietal determination of blended wines. The DNA testing is at the moment, the more accurate technique to verify the monovarietal nature of a wine. In addition there is no need to determine relative varietal components in a Brunello; simply, there must not be any other varietal fingerprints, than that of Sangiovese!

    ” Soldera should ask the professors at the Bordeaux or Montpellier universities, as I have done, instead of talking only with the biology faculty in Siena.”

    The Serge-genomics at Siena is not the only team working on DNA testing of wines; please, refresh and update your literature on this topic.The work that is currently under development at Siena derives from a continuous sharing of opinions with other national and international groups.
    The collaboration with the US TTB was funded with much less than 150.000 Euros, that the Consorzio of Brunello invested in research development with the “Fondazione E. Mach of San Michele all’Adige” and already produced interesting and scientifically validated results (AJEV, 63:4 (2012)). The results produced by the small team of the Serge-genomics, put the basis for developing more sophisticated molecular testing methods on commercially available blended US wines, that will be presented soon at the next TTB/Wine Institute meeting that will be at Rochester (USA) this April.
    The Serge-genomics team has also been invited to participate as chairman/speaker in the next international congress BIT’s 2nd World Congress of Food Science and Technology-2013 that will be in China next September. The work will be presented at the Session 3-9: Emerging Technologies in Food Analysis.

    Stay tuned!!!!!!

    1. Donatella Reply

      Dear Mrs Vignani,
      what a pity that you were not at the convention on the traceability of wine which took place in Verona last April 9th.
      Your collegues from three different universities have excluded the possibility to define the original vine through the DNA, in an aged wine as for example the Brunello wine.
      I am not an expert in genetics. You should discuss about this with your collegues of the univerities of oenology, not with me, as a matter of fact they do not agree with you.

      I have the highest respect for you and for your job, I know how hard you work, and that you are a correct and competent person. I have only referred the opinions of your collegues from the most important univerities of oenology.
      With my kindest regards

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