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The most important wine word today is “autochthonous”

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Indigenous, that is the key element in wine according to Matt Kramer editorialist for Wine Spectator

Read for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Matt-Kramer-Wine-Spectator

Matt-Kramer-Wine-Spectator

Since 1985 Kramer writes regularly for the most influential wine magazine in the world and has an analytical ability and a knowledge regarding wines which are extraordinary. Listening to his opinions is consequently a must for those who want to understand where the wind blows for wine. In his article dated June 30th he began with this phrase <<Do you think that at this moment the most important word in wine is “natural”? Or “authentic” Or better still “commercial” None of these. The most important word in wine today is “autochthonous ” (indigenous).>> With his usual understandable explanation he gets across that all that happens in the Vineyard and the cellar is important but not fundamental, not as much as the 3 key elements: microclimate, soil, grape variety. No matter how hard the producer may try to characterize his Cabernet Sauvignon, it will always remain a Cabernet Sauvignon. But, what is the identity or indigenous character as Kramer calls it? Read more…

Peposo, in a recipe the story of the heart of Tuscany

This is one of the tastiest and easiest meat dishes in Tuscany, but it is also one with a beautiful story. This is the recipe belonging to the  “cocciari” in Petroio

Peposo_Tuscan_recipe_FattoriaDelColle

Peposo_Tuscan_recipe_FattoriaDelColle

Delicious advice from Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Petroio (Siena), a special little hamlet  10 km from Fattoria del Colle, and is well known for its production of terracotta objects from Renaissance times. Vases, jars. flower boxes, ….artistic objects but also construction materials like roof and flooring tiles just like Impruneta nearFirenzewhich, though, is more famous.

Two territories which make the most of the great amount of clay in their underground to create red terracotta objects in Impruneta and amber coloured in Petroio. Two territories who have the Peposo recipe in common,  this is a very tasty stew that used to be cooked in the terracotta furnaces and

Peposo_ingredients

Peposo_ingredients

gave the furnace masters the energy for their very tiring job. It seems that the invention of the Peposo dish is somehow bound to the construction of the dome of the Duomo di Firenze and to the enormous physical effort required by the architect Filippo Brunelleschi of the furnaces in  Impruneta. History or legend, it doesn’t matter Peposo is now bound to the most beautiful dome ever built in the world and to the red bricks used to build it.

Superfluous to say the red wine is the base of the preparation, and the serving at the table. I advise Cenerentola DOC Orcia made at Fattoria del Colle with autochthonous grapes –Sangiovese and Foglia Tonda-.

Ingredients for 4 people:

800 gof beef muscle, 8 garlic cloves, a large glass of wine, a spoon of tomato conserve, salt and pepper, some sage and bay leaves.

Peposo_AntonioCorsano_Chef_Osteria_restaurant_of_Fattoria_del_Colle

Peposo_AntonioCorsano_Chef_Osteria_restaurant_of_Fattoria_del_Colle

Preparation:

Cut the meat as if for a stew. Put it in a casserole dish with the whole cloves, the conserve diluted with hot water, a spoon full of black pepper grains, a whole glass of wine and some salt and pepper. Add water until the meat is covered then cover the dish and put in the oven. Cook the Peposo for  2-3 hours on a moderate setting if necessary add more arm water. At the end the meat must be very tender.

Serve very hot on slices of toasted bread. It is possible to prepare the Peposo in a pan on the stove but however it is necessary to cook it for a very long time.


Grape harvest is finished and we are waiting for the 5 star

The 2012 vintage has been incredible; Donatella Cinelli Colombini went from pure terror because of the drought to full scale enthusiasm for the extraordinary Brunello grapes picked.

Donatella with grapes

Donatella with grapes

A cold winter, with snowfalls which blocked people in their homes for a whole month, but also a dry winter where even the snow left very little humidity in the soil.

So, the 2012 summer has been preceded by a long period of about 12 months of dryness with rare showers, and that means with half the usual amount of 700 mm of rainfall which we usually get in this part of Tuscany. This is where it starts to get interesting! From June onwards 3 months without a single drop of rain with temperatures above average but most of all a sky that was always so clear, so the hours of sunlight were always very many every day. This type of situation has greatly troubled the grape growers. The trimming of the shoots were modest and the leaves nearest the clusters were left to protect them from the sun. The vineyard was hoed so as to maintain the humidity underground, the clusters were thinned out twice so that in the end there really were very few.

Read more…

An anticipated grape harvest for Brunello and Doc Orcia

In Donatella Cinelli Colombini vineyards the clusters are scarce and it will have to be further diminished with the “green harvest” so as to help the thirsty vines

Fattoria-del-Colle-inspection in the vineyards-Valérie-Lavigne

Fattoria-del-Colle-inspection in the vineyards-Valérie-Lavigne

To be sure this grape harvest with be anticipated and scarce! What is still to be seen in the level of quality which will depend on the rain foreseen for the end of August. The vines are thirsty. Especially where there is more soil skeletal and a better position. So the change in climate is completely turning over the classification of best vineyards and in 2012 the best grapes will come from the vines planted in soil which is rich in clay and with less exposition to the sun.

For Donatella Cinelli Colombini this means a small revolution. So at Casato Prime Donne in Montalcino more expectations from the “vignone” – the only old vineyard on the farm – and in the Sant’ Antonio Vineyard while the new splendid vineyards of Sangiovese on the hill begin to show the first

Sangiovese grapes

Sangiovese grapes

traces of stress through lack of rain. At Fattoria del Colle the Foglia Tonda variety is in serious difficulty and some of the grapes have already been removed to help the vines resist the drought. Much better for the Sangiovese and even better for the Sagrantino, which seems indifferent to all climatic problems. The hydro-stress is more accentuated at Fattoria del Colle than in the Brunello area, especially in the “poggione” vineyard.

The colour changing of the grapes ( from green to blue )  will determine how many and which clusters to remove with the green harvesting. The green grapes are cut. There are few clusters but to help the grapes in the extreme climatic conditions registered in 2012 it will be necessary to diminish some more.

culling-foglia-tonda vineyard

culling-foglia-tonda vineyard

<<Nature always gives back what it has taken away >> says the proverb, so if there is a reduction in quantity then there should be relative increase in quality, and as there is a foreseen lessening in quantity of about 20% with respect to the norm, then this year the quality should be extraordinarily high. Let’s hope so!

 

 


Doc Orcia communicates via mobile phone

The Strada del vino Orcia is the first with a QRcode signposting. With the new generation mobile phone one will be able to aim at the image on the signposts and receive information regarding wines and locations

Doc Orcia insegne e depliants

Doc Orcia signs and brochures

A small step forward for the denomination born in the year 2000 in one of the most beautiful agricultural territories in the world: the Val d’Orcia and the Crete senesi.  A land of soft hills where the vines are alternated with woods, olive groves, and on lower grounds field of grains. Fattoria del Colle is in the Doc Orcia territory and produces two wines from this denomination: Leone rosso and Cenerentola, the second of which is made with only Tuscan grapes – Sangiovese and Foglia tonda -.From this year onwards Doc Orcia will also have the “riserva” type, which must have at least one years ageing in oak barrels, and a type called “Sangiovese” with a maximum of 10% of other local grape types like Colorino, Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera and Foglia Tonda. These decisions underline a production strategy regarding quality and identity; a strategy which honours this young, small but very competitive denomination.

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