It is the best post in 2013 for Wine blog awards and it arrives from the Master of Wine Ron Washam. Ironically and a little aggressively he shows what young people think
Read for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini
It is called Lo Hai Qu on The Death of Wine Critics and shows a young Cambodian girl with a short dress while she is drinking red while and smoking. She is one of the Master of Wine Ron Washam’s assistants and has the main role of preparing his tastings distinguishing wine from urine. Don’t laugh that’s what is says! The post goes on to say with a mixture of self irony and realism putting an accent on the difference between traditional wine critics and the younger generation. If in 4 years it is possible to become a doctor how is it possible that it takes 5 years to learn about wine. And then the ratings, for Lo Hai Qu these are senseless like paying for an experts opinion when on the web all is there available and free.
In other words posting such a text really is an act of courage. It means that you are ready to confront yourself without fear with the new generation of consumers. On the British irony and an unlimited competence in wine consent to face this question openly , and in fact the post comes from the House of Master of Wine, a temple of wine competence full of people who have made wine their reason of being and practically a religion.
But that is not enough, in a later post dated July 29th; the Lo Hai Qu saga continues with the announcement of a future film to be produced called “House of Racks” and filmed in Ron Washam’s cellar.
There is a lot to be learned from the Master’s of Wine, surely their ability to judge wine but more importantly their casualness and self-irony with which they say important things and get everyone to understand them. You see the web really is a rival for the power of the wine critics, practically a worm that daily burrows its way in the podium from where they express their opinions.
This situation reminds me of something from thirty years ago: “Quelli della notte” by Renzo Arbore, who created a new communication method and a new TV format. Among many provocation there was also the sketch Caffeao meravigliao, such an invented product which with irony poked fun at publicity. Ron Washam’s posts have the same geniality, the same ability to use the paradox to reveal reality.
Brazilian sommeliers together with Roberto Rabachino, and wine lovers from Germany together with the 1998 world champion and Master of Wine Markus Del Monego
Casato Prime Donne in Montalcino Donatella and Brazialian women in wine
Among the Brazilians who visited us there were some super VIP’s who had arrived with their own private jet such as Deunir Luiz Argenta owner of the first winery and the most beautiful cellars in Brazil “Argenta”. Guided by Roberto Rabachino and his wife Gladys Torres, two forces of nature, able to divulge the wine culture and spread enthusiasm. Rabachino teaches, for the Università di Torino, these aspiring Brazilian tasters. He is one of the great thinking minds of FISAR an association of sommeliers that in the Siena region has one of the “Historical leaders “ Nicola Masielllo. FISAR sommeliers served, with their usual elegance, the wines during the tasting and a light faming-style snack served in the Casato Prime Donne hall. A wonderful meeting for the making of new friends and the final promise of a” wine makers Exchange” between Violante Gardini, the Cinellicolombini Jr, and a contemporary Brazilian producer who will each spend some time in the others winery. Read more…
The Brunello dedicated to women, in the direction for Sangiovese and Montalcino tipicity, a new research of personality and finesse with little “oak effect”
The Brunello Prime Donne 2008 expresses its full belonging to the identity of Sangiovese and Montalcino. In other words it exalts those characteristics of the grape variety and of the Brunello territory that right on the Montalcino hill reach their excellence. A choice that puts the wine’s personality in the role as protagonist. The choice of refined style is also evident: a togetherness of harmony, elegance, roundness and lengthiness.
The effect of the barrel ageing, where the wine has rested for more than two years, becomes softer also because of the choice of medium and large barrels after the winemaker Valerie Lavigne asked us to empty our cellar of barriques. Read more…
No Italians among the top 10 chosen by the magazine “The Drinks Business”. On the podium Gina Gallo, Jancis Robinson and Annette Alvarez Peters
Gina Gallo with her husband Boisset
Gina Gallo, the heir and technical director of the Gallo winery, is the most powerful woman in wine in the world. If the influence that comes from the billion bottles produced per year, then there is the husband, great French wine Jean-Charles Boisset. Together they make up one of the most formidable wine couples ever seen.
In second position of “The Drinks Business” list is Jancis Robinson the English Master of Wine. Tireless and with unquestioned authoritativeness Jancis has a column in the “Financial Times” and an intense activity on the web. Only on twitter she has 160.000 followers. Next step down on the podium we find Annette Alvarez Peters head buyer for Costco the major French quality wine importer in USA and fifth American retailer with a billion in purchases per year.
Following are Philippine de Rothschild from Chateaux Mouton, Lalou Bize-Leroy the great dame from Bourgogne, Danièle Ricard President of Pernod Ricard, the second company in the world for beverages. Read more…
BRUNELLO 2006 RISERVA 2005
These are the most impressive wines I have tasted from Donatella Cinelli Colombini. Antonio Galloni the young and very competent wine taster of Wine advocate is so surprised that he repeats this phrase three times in each of the 3 tasting sheets for the wines he is commenting: Brunello 2006, Brunello Prime Donne 2006 and Riserva 2005 ( 92, 92, 92+) which has been judged superior.
Sweet music for our ears. 12 years of investments and hard work produce a continuous progress in the quality of our wines. It is a slow change because the vineyard work is slow, but it is followed enthusiastically by our clients and importers. The best has yet to come!
Then of course there is another change, that in favour of our Tuscan roots, wanted by our wine maker Valérie Lavigne, who has imprinted such a style on our wines and on our work during the past year: that means later grape harvest to preserve the varietal characteristics of our grapes, emphasizing the local grape varieties, eliminating the barriques from the cellar, and searching for the historic personality of the wine during the bottling phase just like a restorer.
During the last Vinitaly these changes that she has wanted have been noticed and appreciated by many operators, first among all Frank Roeder Master of Wine who happens to also be our importer (VIF) in Volklingen in Germany who has ordered ten times the usual amount of Brunello.
But Antonio Galloni from “Wine Advocate” is the first wine taster-journalist to notice the change in our wines and he writes about it, with, we imagine, a smile on his face, “This undeniably attractive, opulent Brunello full- throttle style. The finish is round, creamy and impeccably balanced”.