2017: the most Mediterranean harvest ever in Tuscany that has produced very sensual wines that are warm, powerful and able to give their best in youth, Cenerentola Doc Orcia is one of these.
THE 2017 CENERENTOLA DOC ORCIA HARVEST
This wine comes from the maddest vintage since the beginning of the century: at the end of April there was a spring frost that hit the whole of Europe. Our hills remained miraculously unharmed while in Spain or Sicily the young buds on the vines were burned.
But another danger was in stall: after a winter with few showers an African summer began, that at the beginning of August made the thermometers rise to 40°C. Bushes, hedges, streams without water and hoards of thirsty wild boar that ate the grapes still unripe to quench their thirst.
Those, who like us, practice an organic regime in agriculture, have had less problems of hydro stress in the vineyards because the vines, solicited to react spontaneously to the climate, have maintained an equilibrium abandoning part of the clusters that remained green and were later removed.
At the end the 2017 harvest has been the scarcest ever.
While the Sangiovese, main Tuscan variety, has suffered thirst and heat, the Foglia Tonda a local rare variety, carried out one of its best performances.
CINDERELLA FROM THE FAIRYTALE TO THE WINE
However there is a reason for this funny name, it is the similarity between the Cinderella fairytale and the Orcia Doc wine region. This appellation was born in 2000 among the high hills between the Brunello di Montalcino and Nobile di Montalcino wine regions. It would seem an adverse situation with two stepsisters who are older and more famous and who get invited to royal banquets, while the young Orcia DOC gets ignored. But this situation is one that also incites to combactivity and creativity.
So , in conclusion, with a lot of courage and a pinch of magic the Doc Orcia region challenges the sisters.
The magic is a Tuscan grape variety abandoned practically a century ago, the Foglia tonda, that together with Sangiovese forms an intriguing blend: the first is elegant the second is powerful. Donatella Cinelli Colombini, like a fairy in the story focuses on this strange couple and after 15 years perfections the wine. Cultivation of the vines, grape harvest, vinification and barrel ageing. This has been a tough job but the sales are on the up and so are the ratings by the international press: 90/100 and even 93/100. Cenerentola is on its way to become a cult wine different from any other and with a small crown on the label, because, just as in the fairytale, the wine too has its Prince Charming.
CENERENTOLA 2017 DOC ORCIA TASTING SHEET
TYPE: dry red.
PRODUCTION AREA: Tuscany, Trequanda, Fattoria del Colle vineyards.
VINTAGE CHARACTERISTICS: Dry winter, June and July were very hot, and August began with temperatures over 40°C for 10 days in a row. The showers arrived on august 10th which mitigated the excesses of the climate.
GRAPE TYPES: Sangiovese (Bruenllo), Foglia Tonda
GRAPE HARVEST: from September 13-14th. The grapes were handpicked the grape choosing them cluster by cluster. Two successive pickings were necessary to differentiate the best quality.
VINIFICATION: fermentation in 80-100hl temperature controlled stainless steel vats for 15/25 days..
AGEING: 12 months in 5 hl French oak tonneaux and in small barrels.
QUANTITY PRODUCED: 9.300 bottles.
ORGANOLEPTIC ANALYSIS AND WAY OF SERVING CENERENTOLA 2017
COLOUR: intense, brilliant ruby red.
AROMA: particularly fine, deep and complex. Hints of violets joined by nuances of apple, sour cherry, cherries and darker perfumes like pepper, juniper and citrus fruit.
TASTE: harmonious but pushy in its juvenile exuberance, the warmth of the alcohol is well balanced by the freshness. The tannins are evident but silky and promise longevity. The pleasantness in taste lasts at length in the mouth.
SERVE WITH: may be served with important meats and aged cheeses. Excellent also as an aperitif with salami and savoury biscuits. Above all avoid vinegar, raw onion and garlic, artichokes and asparagus.
WAY OF SERVING: serve at room temperature (18-20 °C) in crystal balloon shaped wine goblets.
HOME AGEING: 10 years. Lay the bottles down in a cool dark place.