New York Times talks of Brunello: time for harmony
Eric Asimov writer, wine critic at The New York Times since 2004, says that the secret is, balance, and he loves Sangiovese from Casato Prime Donne
By Donatella Cinelli Colombini
Eric Asimov
The beginning of the article doesn’t promise much <<For a great wine, Brunello di Montalcino has had more than its share of detractors>>. And then he worsens the situation by reminding one that many wines are far too muscular and intense to be made of only Sangiovese, and how , in the past some producers asked to add other grapes to Brunello, << a disastrous redefinition that was narrowly averted>>
So as is usual in the Anglo-Saxon world his opinions are stated without too many twists, Eric Asimov likes Brunellos that are traditional, that respect the noble tradition of the Biondi Santi’s, and it is from those who hope to attain this that the most interesting contributions arrive.
Montalcino Panorama
<< You can still find Brunellos made in the jammy, sweet, concentrated, oaky style that found favor 20 years ago, but even if they are still popular, these wines now seem anachronistic>>
And later talking about Biondi Santi, Soldera, Poggio di Sotto, Cerbaiona << showed the balance of fruit and flowers, freshness, purity and minerality that I have come to love in Brunello di Montalcino>>. The element that seems to emerge as essential is the harmony, where there is a balance between pleasantness structure and longevity, that creates masterpieces, and that this the Brunello that Asimov loves.
Brunello di Montalcino 2010 Donatella Cinelli Colombini
My Brunello 2010 is the second among those preferred and is described as “Structured yet graceful, with earthy, smoky fruit flavors framed by dusty tannins”. Thank you Asimv! I have never had the opportunity of meeting the famous wine critic from the New York Times but I share his opinion regarding Brunello and its elegance and harmony.
Eric Asimov
I think that all those from by generation will have read a science fiction book by his grandfather Isaac Asimov. Just this makes one appreciate Eric, then there is his Facebook page which transforms his nicety into enthusiasm- He really seems an open, curious, ironic, intelligent man but most of all he is not full of himself.