2020 Grape harvest is heading towards another 5-star double-win
2019 and 2020 grape harvest, like identical twins, but different: both worthy of the highest rating but also to be understood in their diversity like 2015 – 2016
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by Donatella Cinelli Colombini
It is always difficult to shine next to a great star: it will be difficult for those running 100 meters after Usain Bolt, it has been difficult for all mathematicians after Albert Einstein and it is difficult for all entrepreneurs comparing with Jeff Bezos from Amazon.
It will be the same for the 2020 vintage. It cannot shine after a masterpiece of a vintage like 2019 even though it is one of the best vintages picked during the last 20 years, without doubt worthy of the 5 stars given to the best vintages in Montalcino.
THE 2020 COVID GRAPE HARVEST
Let’s go in order, by telling you in detail the harvest in the Covid year. The first with facemasks and the necessity to keep at a distance however had had contact, even indirectly with those found positive. It has been terrible to say to two grape pickers to because their kids class was in quarantine <<go home and you can’t come back until you have a negative swab>> and it has been difficult to say to our consultant wine maker Valérie Lavigne << if you cannot have a swab done before leaving France you must renounce in coming>>. The risk of contagion has created as lot of worry, many problems and however a much less joyous atmosphere than usual.
CLIMATE: 2020 GRAPE HARVEST FROM VERY DRY TO VERY RAINY
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There has been a frost during the budding (18-23) at the end of March. To begin with the vineyards seemed unharmed but then we saw that the grapes were decidedly less than usual.
The winter has been very mild and dry. In spring we underwent an attack of powdery mildew in the Fattoria del Colle vineyards and the tractor drivers had to get up really early to spray the vineyards with sulphur before dawn.
In June finally the rainfalls arrived, a really rainy month. The torrid summer began halfway through July and lasted until halfway through September practically without rain except for a nice rainfall at the end of August. Luckily the difference in day and night temperatures has always been great.
The veraison took place at the end of July and the last phase of the grape ripening took place in the heat, especially in September when the daytime temperatures stayed over 32°C. The vineyards were not de-leafed so as to protect the grapes from the sun that did however do some harm.
The problem has been that the rainfall arrived exactly during harvest time and the constant risk of rain forced the grape pickers to an accelerated job, with great anxiety and an occasional prayer.
2020 GRAPE HARVEST AT CASATO PRIME DONNE
The Brunello harvest began on September 17th, in the older vineyards. Then followed the younger vineyards, and on the 23rd, when everybody thought that Valérie Lavigne would be here the Ardita vineyard was picked, the queen of our fields. Enrico and Violante also when to pick. In the olden days by tradition Casato was the place where our ancestors would spend their honeymoon so the newlywed couple have renewed this tradition in doing the harvesting experience together.
The rain circumnavigated, leaving Casato dry up until September 25th, practically at the end of the picking. On that day the rainfall flooded everywhere, even the restaurant at Fattoria del Colle and the underground Infernotto, the cellar where the antique bottles of Brunello are stored.
The perfectly ripe, healthy grapes, with perfectly lignified grape seeds, had the typical crunchiness of create vintages. The analyses are better even than 2019: the actual berries smaller than usual, more extractable polyphenols, potential alcohol around 14% and a good acidic content. The musts have great colour and aroma.
In one tank we have done a completely natural vinification, without adding yeasts that have been selected at Casato since 2008.
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2020 GRAPE HARVEST AT FATTORIA DEL COLLE
The Traminer for the Passito and for the IGT bianco Sanchimento arrived in the cellar at the beginning of September.
The vineyards without fences that had been abandoned because of the Covid virus were literally finished by wild boar and venison. At the end of September there wasn’t even one grape berry left.
On September 14th and 15th the Merlot was picked. Then the harvest continued in Montalcino to then return to Fattoria del Colle at the end of September. First the Sangiovese was picked, then the Foglia Tonda and finally the Sagrantino and the Sanforte. This last variety is a very promising experiment.
CONCLUDING COMMENTS
In the past there has been another similar to the present one, 1992, where enormous rainfalls started just before the grape picking began. The difference is that is 1992 the grapes where not yet ready to be picked, the berries were still hard as marbles, so the grape growers waited, and it was a disaster.
In 2020, on the other hand, being ahead of the vegetative cycle by 15 days, allowed us to pick ripe and perfect grapes before the downpour, And then they say that the increase in temperature is a negative element!!! Thirty years ago we would have lost all the grapes.
The presence of my daughter Violante and her husband Enrico during the harvest has been crucial. To see two young people with degrees, leaving their computers to pick up the scissors, has helped accelerate the picking and to risk the rain. This has been a reminder for those who look upon manual jobs with contempt and stays in the office regardless of what happens. A general admonition for those who, during the crisis due to the Covid virus, expects someone else to solve their problems.
Only courage, spirit of sacrifice, speed in reaction and versatility will bring the Italian people out of the woods. If everybody does their bit following the proverb <<God helps those who help themselves>> we can do it, just like we have in this harvest.