SUPERTUSCAN WINES AND MONICA LARNER’S TUSCAN DISCOVERIES
THE EDITOR OF WINE ADVOCATE – ROBERT PARKER PRESENTS US 110 IGT WINES AND MINOR TUSCAN DENOMINATIONS INCLUDING OUR CENERENTOLA AND IL DRAGO E LE 8 COLOMBE
By Donatella Cinelli Colombini #winedestination
Monica Larner editor of Wine Advocate – Robert Parker amazes us once again with the report of 110 wines including Supertuscans and wines from small Tuscan denominations. In her presentation article she specifies that she has included the “usual suspects” i.e. Tignanello, Solaia, Saffredi, Galatrona and Redigaffi and <<some fun discoveries made on the Tuscan wine route relating to smaller or little-known names>>.
MONICA LARNER AND THE BORDEAUX STYLE SUPERTUSCANS
In her explanation of the “super Tuscan” category there is another surprise. Monica Larner clarifies that the highest quality type of Tuscan IGT is linked to a specific period in the modern history of Italian wine, dating back to a period between 10 and 30 years ago << which was heavily influenced by Bordeaux. This catch-all category has always frustrated me because it goes against everything achieved to underline territorial identity, authenticity and varietal typicity in wine>>
This is music to my ears. The continuation of Larner’s article is even closer to my philosophy << People now want freshness, zest and energy. They overwhelmingly embrace a prettier and more elegant side of Tuscany>>.
In the background are the changes that Monica Larner has noticed in the wineries: less oak, more stainless steel, concrete, amphorae and other alternative vessels. Changes that also affect the vineyards with a shift towards cooler slopes, exposed to the north, at higher altitudes, in order to maintain the freshness of the fruit.
The article ends with the hope << it feels like more can and should be done to finally and definitely jolt Tuscany out of its outdated “super Tuscan” legacy>>.
Cenerentola Orcia DOC
93/100 CENERENTOLA DOC ORCIA 2019
As always very precise and technical, Monica Larner provides the technical information on the organic Cenerentola Doc Orcia with a blend of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Foglia Tonda planted in the calcareous soils at Fattoria del Colle at 400 meters above sea level and ventilated. The description of the wine follows <<The wine shows medium-rich concentration with tart flavours of cassis and forest berry. Those forest-like aromas continue with raspberry bramble, autumnal leaf and peat moss. I like the freshness of this wine and its wild side>>.
Il Drago e le 8 Colombe IGT Toscana
92/100 IL DRAGO E LE 8 COLOMBE 2019 IGT TOSCANA
In this case too it is an organic wine composed of a blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 20% Sagrantino. Monica Larner shows that she really likes its characters. <<This is a wine of big grit and density, and although the tannins are resolved and slightly dusty in texture, there is enough structure to pair with steaks or pork chops. The bouquet offers black plum and sweet blackberry pie that is contrasted against a savoury or slight spicy side>>.