The vengeance of Brunello 2014
Considered a lesser vintage the 2014 Brunello di Montalcino offers pleasure to those who drink it. This is an important benefit as explained by Andrew Jefford in Decanter
Life as a wine producer is full of surprises: the article in Decanter is dedicated to the hedonistic pleasure of enjoying wine, rewards our Brunello 2014 and fills us with joy.
The wines born in weaker vintages are like “Children of a lesser God”, to discover their beauty it is necessary to overcome the clichés. This is what has happened to the Brunello 2014, product of a rainy and cool year that forced us to choose the clusters and o produced just a third of our normal production. Consequently in this vintage we used for Brunello what usually goes into our selection and the Riserva, the grapes from our TOP vineyards, that never fail, whatever the climate.
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2014, GOOD RATINGS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL PRESS
The specialized international press reports were favourable: 91/100 from Robert Parker -Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, 90/100 from Wine Spectator. The market had appreciated this pleasant to drink and “carefree” Brunello, as Monica Larner called it.
However nobody let out a “cry of joy” before this article by Andrew Jefford, Decanter contributing editor and multiple award-winning author, published in the most important UK wine magazine and among the most authoritative and influential in the world.
ANDREW JEFFORD FROM DECANTER AND THE PLEASURE OF WINE
The article regards the pleasure of wine. A subject that seems banal but is on the other hand quite complex, and to be read from different angles. There is the sensorial pleasure that has guided the choice made by Robert Parker. There is the pleasure that according to wine makers and that sometimes is bended, according to different factors like longevity. But we must also as ourselves if pleasure is something universal or more individual, and how much this pleasure is influenced by wine culture and by the training in tasting. A tutoring that can influence and as Jefford says “intoxicating”. To all of this must be added ethical elements such as the following of a natural wine movement such as Nicolas Joly’s credo. More than anything there is a social status of wines, so more they are expensive and difficult to find, more the pleasure is in the exclusivity. There is also the trend of “the stranger the better” where the asset is the novelty and the diversity. Finally there are the “ethnical” elements such as the perception of tannins for the Italians and the French and the acidity for the German and the Australians …
And in the end the revenge of the “children of a lesser God” … The wine that during the lockdown period, has given most pleasure to the super UK wine expert Andrew Jefford, is my Brunello di Montalcino 2014. The pleasure of a semi mature wine, the plums and berries now in retreat in a mist of truffle, warm forest, frankincense and animal comfort. And flavours in which a warm resonant acidity meshes seamlessly with time-ripened tannins and the glow of those remembered fruits. To conclude with <<great vineyards – but great cellar work, too>>
I’m jumping with joy. And it’s thanks to the British pragmatism that the hedonistic pleasure of drinking wine has been emphasized as well as the value of this vintage without preconceptions.
I remember when we were preparing the price list I was very doubtful and it was Violante my daughter, who insisted and convinced me not to lower the price << come on mum, there are so few bottles of it, you’ll see we will sell it all>>. She was right. Regardless of the hostility from part of the press, the pleasantness of this Brunello “to be drunk young” has convinced the consumers who have thoroughly enjoyed it.
THE IMPORTANCE OF HENDONISTIC PLEASURE IN DRINKNING WINE
Hurray for hedonism and the pleasure of wine!!!!!
Allow me just a thought. The vine is an intelligent and noble plant; it reacts alone to the climate and allows humans to model the result, which means the grapes, just like with precious woods: with wood you can produce a roof beam or a Stradivari. This allows the grape grower to become the interpreter of nature just like a music director, with respect to the composers work. For this reason wine is not a foodstuff but a cultural product, an expression of human civilization.
Please excuse my “countryside philosophy” but I think it is helpful to understand the beautiful article by Andrew Jefford and, the necessity to first judge wines with your senses and then with your brain. Allow me to emphasize the author Andrew Jefford who is an intellectual, a person with substance << (born 1956) is an English journalist, radio presenter, poet, magazine editor, and as a wine writer, the author of various books and columns>> as states Wikipedia.