Brunello 2008 conquers and surprises New York
Brunello 2008 is liked by the Americans more than they expected. It’s a 4 star vintage but is earning its fifth on the field.
Seen for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini
We are in the heart of the Big Apple, in the 19th century branch of a business bank, a sort of modern Pantheon where everything – from the doors to the chandeliers – transmits the opulence of the golden years of America. A location that become a cult for the Batman film and upon entering you really think you see the famous bat fly under the enormous central vault.
The tables for the 41 Brunello producers positioned in a circle around a central buffet with tables for eating on the outside. At midday the assault begins. Really long queues in front of the signing- in desks and an ever growing crowd in front of the producers’ tables, who for 5 hours didn’t have time to go to the restroom. Importers, buyers, journalists and bloggers, restaurateurs, shop owners
….. as if to confirm that Brunello is a star that shines more and more in the first wine market in the world. It is also evident that the 2008 vintage meets with the requirements of the best clientele of the area: it is a “friendly” wine, so much readier and more easily understood than other Montalcino vintages. More importantly it is liked more than everybody expected. It reached here with 4 stars awarded in the harvest rating but is earning its fifth on the field.
2 seminars –the second of which needed added seats (placed at the lunch tables), and participants practically hypnotized by Kevin Zraly who gets them to learn all the names of the wineries. He teaches them the Brunello “aroma therapy”: cover the glass with one hand, rotate the wine, close your eyes and inspire and let the sensations transport you.
During my New York stay I also visited restaurants and met formidable women in wine. It is evident that in catering much has changed: the new Tony May restaurant SD26 has a room full of young people so much so that it seems a trendy wine bar with loud music; even those having dinner are all millennials under 35 years of age. Obviously today high range restaurants must be less pompous and more apt for socializing and Tony, as always, has anticipated the trend.
What is surprising is the increase in number of women and in their authoritativeness, entrusted to
choose and buy wine. All young, beautiful and set on become master Sommelier.
Among the place I visited its worth remembering the University Club, a place that you might expert to see in Oxford and not along First Avenue. Immense halls covered with pre-Raphaelite mosaics, a library just like those in English clubs, 5 kitchens…. in other words, wonderful.
One thing is sure: if here there is an economic crisis, here it is not very visible!