ANCHOVIES WITH PARSLEY AND AGLIONE PESTO
AN APPETIZER FULL OF FLAVOUR AND MEMORIES THAT REPRESENTS THE MOST REAL AND FAMILIAR TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE ONLY WITH AGLIONE INSTEAD OF GARLIC
by Donatella Cinelli Colombini, #winedestination, Fattoria del Colle, Casato Prime Donne
Anchovies with parsley and Aglione from Valdichiana – Toscana, Trequanda, Fattoria del Colle
The simplicity of certain preparations brings with it the flavour of old Tuscan farms, of the ancient wisdom of gestures. Perhaps it is precisely the authenticity of what has not changed over the centuries that gives us back the experience of the past. For this reason, I invite you to prepare anchovies with parsley pesto as Nunziatina did, that is, Annunziata Ferretti, matriarch of her family and head housewife in the kitchen of my Colombini grandparents’ house in Montalcino.
FROM CLASSIC PESTO TO PESTO WITH AGLIONE
There are four recommendations: the extra virgin olive oil must be the one pressed a few months ago using organic olives picked early by hand. Just like the one made in Fattoria del Colle.
The unsalted bread, that is, without salt, typically Tuscan, must be made with sourdough and not with chemicals.
It is better if the parsley comes from the garden and is freshly cut. It is better if instead of garlic you use the aglione from Val d’Orcia. The latter is a transgression compared to the domestic tradition of Montalcino but Nunziatina used little garlic and those who love this bulbous plant must opt for the aglione, the kiss-proof garlic, which is much more digestible (but more expensive).
If we want to experience real flavours we must use real ingredients, which take us back to the time of our childhood.
PREPARATION OF ANCHOVIES IN PESTO WITH AGLIONE
Choose the salted anchovies, preferring the fattier ones. Soak them in water and vinegar, wash them and remove the bones.
Chop with a mezzaluna chopping knife a lot of fresh parsley and a little garlic, be generous only when using the aglione.
Place a layer of anchovies in a bowl, a spoonful of pesto spread on the fish and cover with oil. Repeat the operation until all the anchovies and all the pesto have been used. Then put the covered bowl in the pantry and wait a day so that the fish absorbs the pesto and oil.
Serve on a slice of Tuscan bread flavouring it with oil and pesto. The anchovy in the centre is the tastiest part but also the bread with the sauce is wonderfully delicious.
Originally it was a children’s snack, today it is an “identity” appetizer or rather a nostalgic note for those who turn back the clock.
For us adults, an accompanying wine is needed and I recommend a structured white like the Sanchimento IGT from Fattoria del Colle which is made with a mixed orange and classic method so it has very fine and rich aromas and flavours.