The true story behind Supertuscan wines
These were born 40 years ago as a reaction to tradition. They are with French varieties and also blended with Sangiovese and aged in barriques.
Giacomo Tachis
Read for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini
Tignanello Sassicaia, Ornellaia … the Super Tuscans come about during a moment of crisis for Chianti practically as an explosion of desire for renovation and internationality. Their creator were the geniuses, Giacomo Tachis wine maker and talent scout, and James Suckling the great wine taster who at that time judged Italian wines for Wine Spectator.
Tignanello-and-Antinori-and-Kemp
In 1968 the Marchese Incisa plants on his clayaey hills in Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast, Cabernet and Merlot vines from which will come the most famous of the Super Tuscan wines: Sassicaia. In 1970 his cousin Antinori adds Cabernet to his Tignanello. In 1985 Ornellaia and a year after Masseto.
These are the stars that crate the trend of high quality Tuscan table wines with a price and a clientele decidedly superior to the DOC wines of the same region. Trendy, greatly appreciated by the press and by collector all over the world, they begin now to be symbols of Italian sophistication such as Gucci, Ferragamo and Prada.
Sassicaia cellar
Since 1992 with the creation of the Indicazione Geografica Tipica Toscana, these wines become IGT but continue to stand out as emblems of a more creative oenology bound by less rules than the others.
Today many things have changed and certain Chianti Classico have characteristics that were once distinctive of the Super Tuscans. The trend of blending with international varietals has slowed down also thanks to the attention towards autochthonous varieties, but the prized Tuscan wine of the moment still remains a Super Tuscan: Masseto, pure Merlot produced on the Livorno coast.
Which are the best Super Tuscans? Antonio Galloni ‘s list for Vinous and published by Snooth includes:
San Giusto a Rentennano Merlot La Ricolma
Montepeloso Gabbro Cabernet Sauvignon
Duemani Syrah Suisassi
Ampeleia Ampeleia (Cabernet Franc-based blend)
Piaggia Cabernet Franc Poggio de’ Colli