Vines and wines

Constellation Brands: the largest in the wine world

First producer of luxury wines in the world, first importer of beer in the world, this super colossus also produces Brunello a Montalcino

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Constellation Brands is a multinational company of enormous size and that continues to grow. Its sales volume during the first six months of 2013 published by “I numeri del vino” prove how at this point the profits created by beer have surpassed those created by wine: 220 million the former and 155 the latter before corporate costs and adjustments. Mind boggling figures which correspond to volumes which are increasing by more than 15%.
Wine had a turnover of 629 million dollars in 6 months and a market which is prevalently American even though Constellation sells in 100 nations around the world.
In their portfolio there are some real wine pearls bought when they were already famous and that have maintained their original brand: Robert Mondavi, Clos du Bois and Ruffino which appear on the first page of the list. Not bad considering that on page two there are excellencies such as SIMI and on the third Mouton Cadet Baron Philippe de Rothschild.

In Italy the Constellation owns Ruffino since 2011 where they took over after the Folonari family who has been going through some complicated times. Ruffino is an historical brand with an International reputation: founded in 1877 with 600 hectares of Vineyard and 15 million bottles produced in splendid estates: especially great bottles of Chianti Classico but also of Brunello in the Greppone Mazzi estate.

Will the 2013 harvest be the last of the 20th century?

Scarce harvest, late, excellent quality, which has kept us running, due to the fact that, after years, we have had to weave through sunny and rainy days   [caption id="attachment_8471" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Sangiovese for the Brunello vintage 2013 Casato Prime Donne"][/caption] By Donatella Cinelli Colombini Finally the 2013 harvest is finished. Normal quantities at Casato Prime Donne while at Fattoria del Colle the drought which made us loose last years produce has reduced this year’s quantity too. For the first time after years we saw the ripening proceed slowly with the sugars and the acids evolving at the same rate as the polyphenols in the...

Sensorial analysis of the grapes let me teach you how it is done

You must put three grapes in your mouth at the same time, to then analyze separately the grape, the pulp, the skin and the seed. And it does not cost anything   [caption id="attachment_8442" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Grape tasting Valérie Lavigne’s hands after tasting"][/caption] By Donatella Cinelli Colombini The first to promote a sensorial analysis of the grapes were Rousseau and Delteil of the ICV inMontpellierin the year 2000 (read “Corriere Vinicolo” about this and other techniques). Their method is still today the best known and used. It is based on a form with 19 descriptors to which the taster gives a vote from 1...

Countdown for Donatella’s grape harvest

It began with Traminer and will continue with the Brunello Sangiovese, Chianti and Orcia which will be picked after the 20th of September, if the deer don’t get to them and eat them sooner

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Seeing the quantity of grapes eaten by wild boar, deer and roe-deer it comes natural to ask oneself if Tuscan grape growers cultivate grapes as animal nourishment rather than for wine. What a disaster! Year after year the problem is always worse and reduces the yield by 10-20%. It is surprising how a region like Tuscany, where wine is an important part of the economy and the employment, has n administration who is not sensitive to this problem and who dies not try to balance the number of wild animals with respect to the dimension of the woods.
Let’s change subject!
The Traminer harvest began on September 9th and lasted one and a half days-it is destined for the production of passito – my husband Carlo’s passion – and the white IGT “Sanchimento”. The grapes were refrigerated so as to reach the fermentation vats in excellent conditions.

Global warming and italian vineyards: What to do

Will be go back to the tent? Maybe not, but surely there will be some changes: less vines per hectare, no more grass among the rows, lower vines with more leafage By Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casato Prime Donne – Fattoria del Colle [caption id="attachment_8365" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Orcia and Chianti vineyard"][/caption] Lorenzo Tosi and Fabio Bottonelli summarize in their 2nd supply-chain report for “Sole 24 Ore” the main actions adopted by Italian wineries to contrast the effect of the higher temperatures and the heavy rainfalls. It must be said that the global warming has not finished: in the next 40years the temperatures will be...

Our Brunello Riserva 2007 rated in the Top Scoring by WS

Bruce Sanderson of the Wine Spectator prefers the following Brunello vintages: 2004 (with 97/100), 2006, 2007, 2008, 2005 and 2003

Donatella Cinelli Colombini celebrates her Brunello Riserva 2007 among Bruce Sanderson‘s favourites, he is Senior editor and Tasting department director for Wine Spectator. For the second consecutive year the wine produced at Casato Prime Donne in 2007 is in the Olympus of wine in the Top Scoring by the super taster Bruce Sanderson. It is in 11th position with a rating of 94/100. Donatella is quite rightly over the moon.
Sanderson’s opinions are very interesting, his article begins with << The Americans have a special love for Brunello di Montalcino and it is not difficult to understand why. This red wine made with 100 % Sangiovese, is one of the best Italian products. With various styles – form true traditionalist to the decidedly modern –the best Brunello bottles show the complexity in the soil and the variety of microclimates which are peculiar to Tuscany.……In 2008 the temperatures were cool during the vegetative cycle of the vines and there were great difference s in day and night temperatures at the end of august right up until the harvest which took place later than usual.>>

Wines by celebrities: there are many and often exaggerated

The film director Francis Ford Coppola, the actors Brad Pitt and Antonio Banderas, the football player David Beckham, the singer Madonna, here are but a few of the famous names on bottles.

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Most wineries belonging to celebrities are in California but some are actually a short distance from Casato Prime Donne in Montalcino, like the ones belonging to the porno-star Savanna Samson or to the luxury shoe king Massimo Ferragamo with his spectacular Castiglion del Bosco. Still in Tuscany one finds vineyards belonging to Sting, to Lorraine Bracco the actress and to the super chef Mario Batali.

But what is it that compels a person who has everything, absolutely everything that life has to offer, to produce wine? It is probably the desire to have bottles with their name on them, with unrepeatable nectar inside. Or maybe it’s the Bacchus world which attracts them and the apparent simplicity in creating great wines. Apparently because the embrace between nature and oenological geniality is something rare, really difficult and often very expensive.

90/100 to Brunello Prime Donne by Tanzer alias Ian D’Agata

His name is Stephen Tanzer but in Italy we read it Ian d’Agata, he is the autochthonous variety paladin who tastes wine for International Wine Cellar By Donatella Cinelli Colombini [caption id="attachment_8328" align="alignleft" width="207" caption="the wine critic Ian D'Agata"][/caption] 90/100 is the rating given to Brunello Prime Donne 2008 by a magazine known for its strict judgments, is consequently a fantastic result. Tanzer, since 1985, is the direct rival of Wine Advocate who combats their fiery prose with a most composed stile, with however the same type of rigour. Among the major wine critics, Tanzer is the one who is closest to the...

Sangiovese is most popular but Prosecco is increasing more

Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Catarratto, Merlot and Tuscan Trebbiano are together more than 30% of Italian vines. Among these the red wines are increasing but the white are decreasing

Read for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini

A very interesting article in the “Corriere Vinicolo” reveals which varieties are cultivated in Italy. The autochthonous varieties dominate the scene while the trinity of most popular International varieties – Cabernet, Merlot, and Chardonnay – detains only 11% of the total. Some are surprised, because of the bell pepper aroma in many blends and sometimes even in the mono-varietal appellations ….but the figures (Istat) are figures and we must consider them fact until the contrary is proven
There is an incredible decrease, and I would like to say thank goodness, in the Trebbiano toscano which practically halved, the Catarratto bianco, the Barbera and Negro Amaro.

92/100 to Brunello 2007 Riserva from Wine Advocate

The last tasting from the Montalcino area by Antonio Galloni for Wine Advocate, and it regards Brunello vintage 2008 and riserva 2007: for us 89, 90 and 92/100

read for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini

This is practically a goodbye from Antonio Galloni who will continue his career as a taster on his blog and leaves the sceptre as super taster for the most influential wine magazine in the world – Wine Advocate belonging to Robert Parker – to Monica Larner. Monica will bring to the ratings a touch of feminine taste, a market in expansion. She is clever and tireless. She knows Italian wines very well and has always shown a great interest for the identifying traits and for autochthonous varieties which clearly is favourable for Italian wines made in thousands of ways.

Let’s see Antonio Galloni tasting for Brunello 2008 and riserva 2007.

The most important wine word today is “autochthonous”

Indigenous, that is the key element in wine according to Matt Kramer editorialist for Wine Spectator

Read for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Since 1985 Kramer writes regularly for the most influential wine magazine in the world and has an analytical ability and a knowledge regarding wines which are extraordinary. Listening to his opinions is consequently a must for those who want to understand where the wind blows for wine. In his article dated June 30th he began with this phrase <<Do you think that at this moment the most important word in wine is “natural”? Or “authentic” Or better still “commercial” None of these. The most important word in wine today is “autochthonous ” (indigenous).>> With his usual understandable explanation he gets across that all that happens in the Vineyard and the cellar is important but not fundamental, not as much as the 3 key elements: microclimate, soil, grape variety. No matter how hard the producer may try to characterize his Cabernet Sauvignon, it will always remain a Cabernet Sauvignon. But, what is the identity or indigenous character as Kramer calls it?