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Vines and wines

Vienna the imperial capital that loves music and Brunello

The Parliament is as large as three football pitches, ice rinks full of children, horse and carts, waltzes  …and red wines to be matched with meat, like Brunello

Brunello in Vienna with Carlo Gardini

Brunello in Vienna with Carlo Gardini

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Vienna is a place that surprises, the enormous buildings, the attention for every detail. This is the capital of Francesco Giuseppe and Strauss. The building where the ex Ministry of war was has a double-headed eagle  that weighs 40 tons in front of it, but in the city centre there is a school that teaches horses how to trot elegantly, and in the taxis, in the lifts and even in the restrooms you listen to Chopin, cake shops resemble jewellers. In other words power and elegance together. His was an imperial capital where nearly all men wore uniforms but also all danced perfectly a waltz and a mazurka. Today it is a well organized, clean, city, proud of its past and optimistic regarding its future. Wow!

In Austria where there are 52.000 places to eat, a quarter of them are cafes where clients spend hours sitting and socializing. The Vienna cafes are the nicest in the world.

Sausages and turnip greens

Here is a traditional winter recipe from the Tuscan countryside. Sausages with “pulezze” or rather the tender turnip leaves,greens,  these are delicious and easy to prepare

sausages and turnip greens

sausages and turnip greens

by Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Regarding turnips my family has a nice anecdote. One of my ancestors from Montalcino had a particularly religious wife who enjoyed turnips, while the husband was not at all religious and didn’t love these vegetables at all. During the winter when the killing of the pig meant that often sausages and ribs were served, the turnips were the habitual side dish, and my ancestor was always irate, so he invented a smart way to stop his wife serving the turnips. He invented a rhyme which he sang loudly every time the poor woman tried to come out of the kitchen with the “pulezze”

<< disse Cristo ai discepoli suoi, non mangiate rapi che è cibo da buoi e San Pietro aggiunse a gran voce – accidenti ai rapi e a chi li coce>> << Christ said to his disciples, don’t eat turnips, they are for the ox,  and San Pietro replied in a rather loud voice, damn turnips and those who cook them>>

In truth the matching of pork with turnips is a delicacy and below you find a typical recipe from Trequanda

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE

8 fresh sausages, 500 g of tender turnipgreens (pulezze), garlic, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper.

1.82 billion $ boom in the USA for direct wine sales

The American colossus shows an increase in +15,5 % in private wine sales just in 2014 and grows 4 times more quickly than the traditional commercial sales channels.

Napa-Valley-300x300

Napa Valley

Seen for you by  Donatella Cinelli Colombini

61% of shipments goes  to 5 states where 37% of all Americans live: California, Texas, New York, Florida and Illinois. But others also do very well: thanks to the law that has facilitated shipping to private citizen, wine lovers form Montana have increate their wine orders by 245 % in one year. The real novelty is Massachusetts, 7th wine market in the USA, that from this year accept shipping from producing wineries .

The Oregon wineries are those who have done exceptionally well with a + 53% in sales to privates in just one year with  Pinot Noir coming up trumps. Oregon does seem to be the new star of the USA wine panorama, but there are also those who’ve been out there much longer such as Napa Valley, main wine making region of the US, which considers sales to private clients determent , and where it represents 48,5% of the business.

This all seems impossible considering the bad crisis we have in Italy. But the source is more than sure, its Wine Searcher, the largest online marketing platform for wine.

Brunello to be cellared: the rules for enjoying it

Prefer Brunello riserva and the great 5 star vintages. Always decant the wine and never serve it cold. Match it with Tuscan roasted meats

Fattoria del Colle Infernotto

Brunello cellared bottles Donatella Cinelli Colombini

One recommendation is a must: those who do not have a cool (16°C constant with 80% humidity) and dark area where to keep the bottle laying down in the dark, is best that they avoid storing because it is very probable that they will be disappointed. Any wine and so Brunello too, ages very quickly in our warm and well lit homes.

The other piece of advice regards the bottles to cellar for important occasion. Al Brunello lasts a long time, but the variety thought up for very long cellaring is the Riserva. So if you wish to keep a bottle from your child’s year of birth, to then open at their wedding, use a bottle of Brunello Riserva.

Brunello Camicia Rossa

Brunello Camicia Rossa

The more careful wineries, like ours produce riserva only in the excellent years among these, awarded 5 stars are: 1945, 1955, 1961, 1964, 1970,1975, 1985, 1988, 1990, 1995, 1997, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2010.

Casato Prime Donne belonging to Donatella Cinelli Colombini, is quite young although it has a long family history, has a library with bottles from 1993 onwards

MATCHING WITH FOOD

Better to stay with Tuscan dishes:  stracotto, roasts, rare Fiorentina steak or roast beef. As you know matching food and wine is based on two criteria assonance and contrast. They count on the tastes that each emphasise each other, or two tastes that compete each other. In our case a favour the first alternative so I would serve with a Brunello Riserva dishes with scarce fatty sauces and with a full taste.

You don't have a corkscrew? Use a French wine and a shoe

Here is a mystery regarding French bottles being uncorked and Montalcino bottles remaining still well sealed

Rosso di Montalcino attempted uncorking with shoe

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Remove the capsule, get a leather man’s shoe, with a nice hard heel, put the bottle into the shoe so that the bottom of the bottle stands where your heel goes and then hot the bottle on the wall holding it securely in the shoes. Three bangs and it’s done, voila! The cork comes out about a centimeter e and a half and that way it is easy to pull it out with your fingers. Amazing!

 

On YouTube you can find so many videos with French bottles being opened with shoes- there are even some young Russians doing it – and here I discovered that there are actually two uncorking systems: there are also those who open the bottle by hitting the heel of the shoe on the bottom of the upturned bottle after having removed the capsule. It seems really easy in fact the only worry seems to be not to hit too hard as the cork might shoot out and allow the wine out .

I wonder if it will work with bottles of Brunello, which, to ensure long life to the wine are corked with very thick and long corks. Watching a video on YouTube I realize however that the bottle used for the shoe-uncorking is a Château Haut-Brion. So feeling reassured, if it works with a Premier Cru Classé (First Growth), it will obviously work with the wines from Casato Prime Donne!

Donatella Cinelli Colombini presents herself part 2

In 1998 when I left my family’s estate (one of the oldest and most prestigious producing Brunello) to create my own, that bears my name, it really seemed a “mission impossible” By Donatella Cinelli Colombini [caption id="attachment_10091" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Donatella Cinelli Colombini Cavaliere della Repubblica"][/caption] Again like in my other troubled chellenges I had no money, in fact with debts much superior to the income and two wineries with buildings to be renovated, vineyards to be replanted, cellars to be built and more importantly no sales network.. Now we sell wine to 31 foreign nations.  I have in the meantime understood that it...

Rosso di Montalcino 2012, a fantastic 5 star vintage

The 2012 harvest, one with the scarcest amount of grapes man can remember offers a Mediterranean version of Rosso di Montalcino because of the summer heat

Rosso di Montalcino 2012 D.Cinelli Colombini

In 2012 from June to August, it was hot day and night. An unusually dry climate for Montalcino that however was well resisted y the vines helped by the decrease in grapes and the continues hoeing of the land. Once again the vines have proven to be “intelligent plants” reducing by themselves their vitality. Less grapes, small clusters, loose The heat in August, when the temperatures were very high, during both the day and night, accelerated the ripening. This also  brought forward the harvest date. Small clusters with small loose grapes perfect for producing great wines but also apt to the extreme situation of hydro stress.

The storms at the beginning of September quenched the vines’ thirst  and brought the temperatures down in so creating the conditions for a gradual and perfect ripening of the grapes. The harvest too took place in optimal conditions with cool but serene days that sent the grapes into the cellar at 20-25°C.

After the spectacular success in sales of the Rosso di Montalcino 2011, especially abroad, it is very very probable that this  2012 will obtain the same results

WineDogs and wineries that are dog firendly, a new trend

Books web sites, Facebook pages, even contests, the winery dogs are very popular and now so important that there is a ranking of the most friendly wineries

Rodney wine dog

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

This story is so incredible that you will not believe me. In  Australia there is a photographer that works full time on  “Wine dogs” and publishes books after books with images of dogs from wineries. He is called Craig McGill and his star is a 9 year old curly coated retriever called Rodney  that lives on Hugh Hamilton Wines. The same author created the website winedog where the presentation begins with “The original wine dog book”  which is a sort of winedog encyclopedia regarding dogs all over the world. There even a “Winedog of the moth” which in January was  Dutchess a labrador from the Dutcher Crossing Winery in California.

Violante Gardini dries Felix Fattoria del Colle

Practically all wineries in UA have a dog and books about them are on sale next to the bottles. Winedogs also have a Facebook page with more than 3000 likes. In Napa valley there is a list of dog friendly wineries and many many reviews in blogs regarding four legged friends. << Good wine, good dogs, great art and good company, what more could you ask for? >>  asks  dogzenergy while talking about a wine tasting where there is an area equipped for dogs to play.

And finally the contests: there is an award for the 5 tasting halls that are most dog friendly, and the Frank Family Vineyards got first prize.

Donatella Cinelli Colombini presents herself

How can I describe myself? I am imaginative, hard working and lucky. I am also short, a little plump, sensitive to the cold, and attracted by people, places and activities that I do not know

Donatella and Violante at Casato Prime Donne Montalcino

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

First of all I would like to tell you something that very few people know. I am dyslexic, (please check https://dopasolution.com/what-is-dyslexia  for a brilliant article by Tina Richards for those with dyslexia who rely on web accessibility).I grew up in a period where no one knew what dyslexia was and when children who per slower in learning were considered retarded. Only when my daughter Violante also showed the same disability I understood the pros and cons in having a different concept of space, but we are also determined and we have an exceptional ability in organization, for this reason many architects are dyslexic .

I studied History of medieval art. You might say << whatever for as you are a wine producer?>> Incredibly it is very useful. At the end of the 1970’s there were no computers , not even in the large libraries, and to do research meant that you had to use every little part of your brain, after then I have never again worked so hard and had such  exiting times.

History of art is my great love (after my husband obviously), for years I avoided going to museums, this because I could not stand no longer having the knack in understanding epochs, provenance and creators…just like a musician going deaf. Now I once again enjoy going to museums. I even took the Brunello producers to the Guggenheim in NY, and to the Art Institute in Chicago.

Sangiovese weekend at Fattoria del Colle

Weekend in Tuscany for wine lovers to discover the king of Tuscan red wines including an exceptional vertical tasting of Brunello, from the barrel to a few cellared bottles

Sangiovese cluster 2012 Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Donatella Cinelli Colombini will personally welcome you, before the tour of her two wineries in Montalcino and in Chianti begins. The conclusion is a full immersion experience in Sangiovese having a bath in wine to regenerate your skin with the extraordinary virtues of the wines from Montalcino

For a minimum of 4 people                         €284.00 per person

Included in the programme:

2 nights’ stay in a double room with bathroom
2 buffet breakfast with homemade cakes and jams, fresh vegetables with olive oil dip, cold cuts and cheeses
2 traditional dinners (wines not included)
Tours, tastings, vinotherapy and meetings as indicated above
The price does not include transfers

Which barrels are best for Brunello?

A story that tell of tastings, errors and successes whilst looking for the perfect barrel for the Brunello made at Casato Prime Donne in Montalcino

Bottaia

Montalcino Casato Prime Donne barrel ageing cellar

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

 

Our grandparents used barrels that contained 10-15 hl sometimes even made of chestnut , then the larger barrels arrived, and later still the barriques, and now we have gone back to the small barrels.

I’m going to tell you about our search for the perfect barrel for the Sangiovese for Brunello and specifically for the first year of ageing in wood, when the wines evolution is quick and decisive for its long long life to come . In the second and mostly I the third year of ageing in fact we have always used the traditional large barrels 15 hl and then 40 hl, that softly accompany the Brunello towards the bottle.

We stated by looking for  barriques. This was in 2001 and shortly barriques were a must for all producers who did not want to seem thrifty or old fashioned. We tried 7 brands, among which an Italian and an Austrian one. Now they are outside embellishing gardens

Brunello Prime Donne 2010: a dream come true

Donatella Cinelli Colombini presents her Brunello 2010 Prime Donne. It is produced only in exceptional years such as 2010: the best vintage  in the last 100 years

Brunello 2010 Prime Donne Cinellicolombini

As all great red wines produced the world over Brunello is gratifying when young and when it is older. This characteristic is evident in the 2010 vintage more than any previous harvest.

Montalcino is one of the few places in the world where it is possible to produce a great wine with just one varietal, the Sangiovese. This is a magical rapport between nature, microclimate and the grape-growers that brings differing results every year and sometimes reaches perfection and that is what happened in 2010.

In 2010 the winter and the spring hydrated the soil in depth with rain and snow. For this reason the high temperatures in July did not create any problems for the vines that actually reached harvest time with the frond were still in Extremely rare situation but very favourable. In 2010 the grape clusters were small, sound, and with small grapes with lignified seeds

The Brunello Prime Donne is produced only in the best vintages. It is the estate flagship and represents its commitment in favour of equal opportunities for women in the wine world. It in fact is made in a winery staffed only by women and is selected by a group of  four expert  female tasters who decide in which barrels it is to be aged and the final assembling. These are the English Master of Wine Maureen Ashley, the Italo-American Pr Marina Thompson, the German wine store owner Astrid Schwarz and one of the best Italian sommeliers Daniela Scrobogna.

What are wine buyers looking for? Brunello!

The 2015 wish list for the International wine market includes  Brunello 2010 and Bordeaux en primeur

Wine

Wine

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Wine Searcher, the largest  commercial wine showroom with bottles from 38,000 international stores, has interviewed some large fans of the wine market to find out which bottles they are hoping to get in the new year . Obviously the “en primeur” from Bordeaux hold a privileged position. These sales will take place in april and should re-launch this appellation , after the renewed interest shown by consumers in these bottles.

Zachys auction

Zachys auction

But Brunello is also in the dreams of the great worldwide buyers such as Zachys. Its vice president Andrew McMurray actually says<<it is one of the best young Brunello  I have ever tasted and I am expecting the critics’ indications before choosing which to buy>>. He is not alone in waiting for the now mythical 2010 vintage from Montalcino: Joss Fowler from Fine & Rare  in London says<< the demand for the best Italian wines is always great and increasing, in particularly for Brunello>>.
There are several trends going on:  the  dispute between global and local, so among producers who stand out with excellent wines, but very particular, and the globalization of the market that ends up making everyone drink the same things.

Acute sounds and sweet flavours, deep sounds and bitter flavours

  Studies at the University of Oxford certify what we all suspected: sounds change the perception of taste. A lot, they are telling us that it’s something like 5-10% [caption id="attachment_9961" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Prof Spence"][/caption] by Donatella Cinelli Colombini Charles Spence, professor in experimental psychology at the Oxford University, in a recent interview on British radio, explained the effects of sounds on ones perception of tastes. We all suspected that Brunello  seemed nicer if tasted while listening to Bach ….but now there is some scientific evidence. << Taste is probably the most multisensory of experiences>> said Spence << all the senses are used at simultaneously>>. Sounds,...

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 here comes the vintage of the century

Finally is about to arrive the Brunello di Montalcino 2010, the perfect harvest. It holds in itself two characteristics of the Sangiovese wine of Montalcino: the refinement and the longevity

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 DonatellaCinelliColombini

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 DonatellaCinelliColombini

Donatella Cinelli Colombini is pleased to present a masterpiece in the bottle from the Casato Prime Donne winery in Montalcino. A wine that has just come out of the cellar and already hides a powerful structure in an incredibly elegant, enjoyable and deep harmony. In thirty or fifty years it will be a masterpiece of refinement. 

This magic of nature grows only in Montalcino and only if the climate is favourable.
Only few territories in the world are capable of producing a great wine with only one grape variety like Burgundy with its Pinot noir. Montalcino is one of them. Sangiovese grapes find here the perfect soil and climate to ripen slowly and completely.
What’s special about the 2010 vintage? Winter and spring with a lot of rain. A very hot July. The ripening was slow and
steady so that the technological ripeness (juice) went hand in hand with the polyphenolic one (skin). The grape bunches that were arriving in the cellar were perfect, the dream of every winemaker.

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 DonatellaCinelliColombini

Brunello di Montalcino 2010 DonatellaCinelliColombini

Type: dry red denomination Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Production area: Tuscany, Montalcino, Casato Prime Donne
Climate: Winter and spring extremely full of snow and rainfalls that deeply hydrated the soil. Thanks to this stock of water vines withstood well a very hot July, and in August the grape colouring was difficult because of a lacking of water stress. Quite exceptional case, grapes reached ripeness while the vines were still in vegetation.
Grape variety: 100% Sangiovese

                                                                       
Cinelli Colombini
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