The most important wine word today is “autochthonous”
Indigenous, that is the key element in wine according to Matt Kramer editorialist for Wine Spectator
Read for you by Donatella Cinelli Colombini
Since 1985 Kramer writes regularly for the most influential wine magazine in the world and has an analytical ability and a knowledge regarding wines which are extraordinary. Listening to his opinions is consequently a must for those who want to understand where the wind blows for wine. In his article dated June 30th he began with this phrase <<Do you think that at this moment the most important word in wine is “natural”? Or “authentic” Or better still “commercial” None of these. The most important word in wine today is “autochthonous ” (indigenous).>> With his usual understandable explanation he gets across that all that happens in the Vineyard and the cellar is important but not fundamental, not as much as the 3 key elements: microclimate, soil, grape variety. No matter how hard the producer may try to characterize his Cabernet Sauvignon, it will always remain a Cabernet Sauvignon. But, what is the identity or indigenous character as Kramer calls it?















