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Donatella Cinelli Colombini Tag

Is wine a family business?

Joys and sorrows of family wineries. To belong to a wine family dynasty offers better perspectives in imagine and in duration in time, as long as there are no rows

 

Lucia Buffo interviews Lunelli, Boscaini, Soldati, Nonino, Antinori

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

By chance I see an article in Wine Searcher, the super portal from New Zealand. They publish the prices of wines from all over the world , from the best stores from all over the world. They always share also articles that are very very interesting. This particular article has this tile: “Family Wine affair, a Risky Business” and was written by Margaret Rand.

WINE FAMILIES, A STORY OF NOBLESSE AND ROWS

I come from a wine family; my vineyards are on this land since the end of the 16th century. So this subject regards me directly. Reading the piece by Margaret Rand one understands that mine is a privileged situation that creates a better appreciation of a brand and its wines. However the saying “you can’t choose your family” is perfectly apt for many particularly confrontational wine dynasties.

Gaja and Antinori

Soma explicit  examples are quoted in the article, and it starts with my distant relatives the Biondi Santi family, then the Alvarez from Vega Sicilia, and finally the Mondavi’s where Robert has spoken of disputes, even physical ones in an autobiography.

THE WINE FAMILY ASSOCIATIONS

Unions such as Primum Familiae Vini, born 25 years ago ,were born because of the  difficulty in creating cohesion among the family members of these historic wine dynasties. And of course because of the  necessity to advise one another. Primum  is made up of  the real wine Gotha from the international wine world: Marchesi Antinori, Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Joseph Drouhin, Egon Müller Scharzhof, Famille Hugel, Champagne Pol Roger, Famille Perrin, the Symington Family Estates, Tenuta San Guido, Familia Torres, Vega Sicilia and Clarence Dillon. Obviously this is not the only partnership. There are also partners that have solely common sales objectives or those tied by shared scopes, such as the Famiglie dell’Amarone that are opposed to the Consorzio della Valpolicella.

Montisi the magical village part of Montalcino

Toscana-Montalcino-Montisi

 

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Two km from Fattoria del Colle there is a sign indicating the entrance to the territory of Montalcino. I feel at home, although originally my municipality was not so big because it expanded with a merger only in 2016. It is a fact that in Montisi (6 km from the Fattoria) now they say here in Montalcino>> and I listen to them ecstatic.
Montisi is perhaps the most intact medieval settlement in Tuscany.

A small gem built on the remains of the Cacciaconti castle with narrow streets that climb up one inside the other among beautifully restored stone houses. It is so pretty that it looks fake but it is not… the Pieve della Santissima Annunziata (XIII century) with a beautiful altarpiece by Bartolomeo (1496), the Church of Santa Flora and Lucilla, the ‘Oratorio di Sant’Antonio Abate with the small museum that testifies how, the poor people of Montisi could survive by helping each other. In these places I have a beautiful personal memory.


MONTISI A PERSONAL MEMORY WITH ABSOLUTION

I was little more than twenty and studied medieval Sienese goldsmiths. As in each of the things that I do, even in that case I had thrown myself into the adventure with all myself dragging my husband, then fiancé Carlo Gardini, in an interminable pilgrimage between museums and churches to count chalices, reliquaries, and so on …

In Montisi there was a processional cross and I went to examine it and photograph it. Seeing the patience with which Carlo helped me, the priest said to him “Were you in Rome for the Holy Year? Did you take up the plenary indulgence?” Carlo did not expect it and was amazed “no” he answered with a thread of voice “it doesn’t  matter>> said the priest “ kneel because I’ll give you absolution, I can see that you are a good boy>> and blessed him. To me nothing, he obviously understood who was the tender one between us.

Vin Santo del Chianti 2008 Fattoria del Colle

Donatella Cinelli Colombini presents her Vin Santo del Chianti 2008 Fattoria del Colle aged in caratelli for eleven years .

A small selection of very few bottles for lovers of sweet wines

First of all Vin Santo is part of the history of Tuscany. In ancient times all the noble families had caratelli (small barrels) in which the Vin Santo aged in the attic of their Villas. Vin Santo was always served at important banquets .
We do not know when the production of this sweet golden and refined wine was born, it surely existed already in Siena in the fourteenth century. But it was precisely during a banquet that the Vin Santo ceased to be called “vino pretto” that means pure and took on its present name.

The legend

According to legend, this happened in 1439 after the Council of Florence. That meeting was attended by the Greek Cardinal Giovanni Bessarione who, tasting it, exclaimed “this is the wine of Xantos! ” in reference to the island where sweet wines were produced at the time particularly appreciated. Hence, since then xantos wine became  Vin Santo and the name  remained to indicate the delicious Tuscan nectar.

Fattoria del Colle too, has its vinsantaia, it is  in the attic of the sixteenth-century villa. So, crossing the winery and climbing a staircase you can reach the attic where in winter it is very cold and in summer it is very hot. Here are the small barrels  in which the golden liquid, squeezed from the dried grapes, remains to ripen for over ten years.
Last year the Vin Santo del Chianti of Fattoria del Colle received 93/100 from Robert Parker/Wine advocate. A success that we hope will be repeated in the future.
We recommend not to dip cookies in Vin Santo. It is a popular practice very widespread in Tuscany but absolutely harmful because it alters the aroma and taste of the wine.

DRY JANUARY? BETTER NOT

Italian consumers and wine culture

Is abstinence from alcohol better than education for moderate drinking? The British say yes to dry January and perhaps even the French. In Italy no

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

It must be said that in Italy the problem of alcohol abuse is much lower than in other consumer countries. If in fact in Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Hungary, Serbia, Romania, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Belarus, Lithuania and Portugal the average alcohol consumed in a year is 12.5 liters per person. In Italy it is between 5 and 7 liters as in Japan, Iceland or China. It must be known , in the ranking of the OECD countries on alcohol abuse, in the first place are the USA, and Italy is in last position.
However wine is only 12% of the total alcoholic beverages consumed by about 2.3 billion people in the world. To alcohol should be added drugs which are often used in a combined way, especially by young people, to accelerate the euphoric effect.

The 10 most expensive  cognacs in the world

Prices from  2 million to a modest 5,000 dollars per bottle, these are the jewel cognac sto store in a safe: Prestigious bottles for a very long ageing By Donatella Cinelli Colombini [caption id="attachment_45828" align="alignleft" width="204"] Il-Cognac-più-costoso-del-mondo.-Enrico-IV-Dudognon-Heritage-Cognac-Grande-Champagne-2-milioni-1-230x300[/caption] The most expensive is  Henri IV Dudognon Heritage Cognac Grande Champagne costing  2 million and is, deservedly, in the list of the most costly in the world. It has been produced since 1776 by the direct descendants of the King and it ages in barrel for more than 100 years The bottle is covered in 24 carat gold and with 6.500 diamonds. The question is who will...

Brunello Prime Donne: story of a challenge

Donatella Cinelli Colombini had just started designing the company that bears her name when she realized that women managers and consumers counted for nothing. Brunello Prime Donne: story of a challenge

Brunello-Prime-Donne-2015-storia-di-una-sfida

Brunello-Prime-Donne-2015-storia-di-una-sfida

Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne is very traditional in style, produced in a small exclusive selection.
It owes its exceptionality to the grapes of Sangiovese from which it is born. The small size of the bunches and grapes allow it to combine longevity, an extraordinary elegance and a surprising pleasure. The solid acidic and tannic structure is in fact barely perceptible thanks to a perfect harmony.

 

HISTORY OF A CHALLENGE: BRUNELLO PRIME DONNE

Brunello Prime Donne selection was produced for the first time with the 1993 vintage.
Donatella Cinelli Colombini had just begun to design the company that bears her name and that is characterized by the two wineries– Casato Prime Donne in Montalcino and Fattoria del Colle in Trequanda – with an entirely female staff. The attention to the role of women in wine led Donatella to observe that  wine critics and curators of the Italian wine guides were, in 1998, all men.

She decided to reaffirm the importance of women’s taste in the choice of wine by creating the first Brunello selected from a feminine and international panel. The first group consisted of 4 tasters, the English Master of Wine Maureen Ashley, the German wine maker Astrid Schwarz, one of the best Italian sommeliers Daniela Scrobogna and the Italian-american Pr Marina Thompson.

Over the years, the group has changed to become the current one composed of two Masters of Wine, the English Rosemary George and the Swedish Madeleine Stenwreth, as well as Astrid Schwarz and Daniela Scrobogna.

Cabernet is the most cultivated but not the most loved

Cabernet is the most cultivated grape in the world but is it also the most loved? A research on Wine searcher shows that wines of Bordeaux blend are the favorites ones

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Cabernet is the most cultivated but not the most loved

 

The big data on wine, the computer analysis on one of the most boundless existing portals in the world, Wine searcher, allows you to understand which grape is really liked by wine lovers – Cabernet or Bordeaux blend?

 

CABERNET IS THE MOST CULTIVATED GRAPE, BUT THE BORDEAUX BLEND IS THE MOST LOVED.

An exercise that Don Kavanagh enjoyed doing with his typical irony starting from a question: “Cabernet is the most cultivated grape in the world, but is it the favorite?” Is it more liked single vines or Bordeaux blend?
In the end the victory of the Bordeaux blend is overwhelming but with many distinctions Country by Country.
In the USA, Cabernet (14%) is particularly popular, but the Bordeaux blend is second in consumers’ interest with only half a percentage point of distance. In the United Kingdom, however, the Bordeaux blend wins, followed by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Champagne and Rhône Valley with Cabernet only seventh.

Chianti Superiore DOCG 2017

2017 the lowest yield vintage ever brought to the winery gives us a Chianti Superiore, really superior, at Fattoria del Colle in the south of Tuscany

2017 will remain in the history of European viticulture as the year of the great frost. At the end of April, for three consecutive nights an arctic cold wave crossed the continent reaching as far as Spain and Sicily and destroying the buds that, that year, had sprouted 20 days in advance. The photos of Burgundy and Collio with the fires in the vineyards were on the front pages of the newspapers to show the heroism of the winemakers who fought, unfortunately, unnecessarily.
Who, like us, was saved from the frost, then had to fight with the drought and the summer heat that reached 43°C for ten days in a row. The rains of late August and September literally saved the vines and the harvest.
The last scourge was the wild boar which, driven by thirst, also ate the unripe grapes.

Italian restaurants with high online approval

Customer satisfaction for Italian restaurants appreciated on the web exceeds 85%, especially the reception and less the price. On top are Tuscany, Umbria and Veneto. 

Ristoranti-Italiani

Italian restaurants with high online approval

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

The Travel Appeal report analyses every year the reviews in the main online tourist portals that for half concerns  restaurants. In the period September 2018-August 2019 customer ratings were over twenty million and therefore constitute a very large sample of evaluation.

The best Italian restaurants in the world

Passerini in Paris wins, second place for Don Alfonso in Toronto and bronze medal for Heinz Beck’s Tokyo venue. Talk of the best Italian restaurants in the world

Migliori-ristoranti-italiani-nel-mondo-Giovanni-Passerinie

The- best -Italian -restaurants- in- the- world-Giovanni-Passerini

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

The ranking 50 Top Italy with the best 50 Italian restaurants in the world is available online and is the first result of the LSDM project (historical congress of kitchen author that takes place in Paestum) curated by its creators, Barbara Guerra and Albert Sapere, along with the journalist Luciano Pignataro.

 

Why the cork makes wine sell in USA

Over half of the wine sold in the USA is chosen quickly, without too much expertise, in food stores and if it has cork it is preferred

cork-screw cap-other closure effect

by Donatella Cinelli Colombini

How does the US consumer choose wine? In the world’s largest market, 70% of wine purchases take place without the help of specialist staff. About half of the wine is sold in grocery stores. This percentage would rise to 70% if it were not for a dozen states, the marketing of alcohol is separate from that of food. For example in New York City the wonderful eataly shop had to build a separate area to sell Barolo, Chianti and grappa.

IN USA MOST OF THE FAST-BOUGHT WINE IS SOLD TOGETHER WITH FOOD

 

the sound of cork

In the USA wine in bottle represents 90% of the total while that in can or in brik is a marginal part.
Most customers choose quickly and without great skills. For this reason, the purchasing decision is oriented, in a decisive way, by the visible characteristics of the wine such as the price or the closing.

The best wine shops in the world

Wine searcher has selected the world’s top 2826 wine shops and 1224 top merchands in its immense international database of wine and alcohol retailers

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

WHERE THE WINE STORES ARE SITUATED

Vino Nostro wine store in San Francisco

They are located in 167 cities and 32 countries and have been selected among the 20,454 re-sales listed by Wine searcher. The stores have been chosen according to the richness of the assortment and the high quality of services offered to customers such as the presence of competent staff and multilingual, or the offer of samples.
Gold, silver and bronze medals have been awarded to the most talented of the 21 categories relating to the best portfolio of  Burbon, Bordeaux or Burgundy wines, Chilean or Portuguese wines, bubbles and côtes du Rhône, Whisky of malt …. and of course Italian wines and even Tuscan wines.

Luxury wines: more and more success stories

Shopping for more than 253 billion euro per year for wines that cost more than 100 euro and for 12 billion for dream bottles with prices above 1000 euro

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

luxury-wines-Screaming-eagle-cabernet-sauvignon

During the past few years the high end wine market has increased. It has gone from 77 billion euro in 1995 to 253 billion euro in 2015 (study by Bain & Company in 2016). At the same time, the index of WS auctions showed an increase of 300% in value.

This sort of increase is worthy of the best bonds on stock exchanges and an evident preference of the richer consumers for finer wines.

Luxury Wine Marketing by Liz Thach and Peter Yeung

<<The luxury wine category contains all that is rare and with beautiful aesthetics >> explained Liz Thach, Master of Wine and professor at the Wine Business Institute di Sonoma, to Wine Searcher <<it supplies a sense of privilege and elegance>> in other words those who can buy exclusive  and expensive bottles feels privileged and this is something that become quite irresistible.

Luxury-wines-La Tache – Romanée Conti

The book Luxury Wine Marketing by Liz Thach and Peter Yeung studies in fact the desirability of a luxury wine and the elements that make it stand out. In fact, while the market proposes a growing number of extremely expensive bottles, the estate information is quite scarce.   This report starts from a database of 8500 wines with a price over $ 100 per bottle, divided per grape variety, region, type and price, and considering the vintages from 2010 to 2016. The main sources used by the authors were Wine Spectator (WS), Wine-Searcher, The Encyclopaedia of Champagne and interviews.

Alcohol, why women must drink less than men

Gender, age, diet, all these affect the quantity of wine one can drink but there is a rigid rule for all: drink small amounts and often to stay healthy

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

 

Alcohol-the-after-effect-for women-and-men

Sometimes in the wine world you meet some very unexpected interesting and surprising people, more than one would imagine. This has happened to me this year during the Preview Tuscan tastings when I met the journalist Michael Apstein . He asked me to arrange a visit to the DOC Orcia wineries so that he could write an article for the British wine magazine “Decanter”, only two days beforehand. My husband and I went to pick him up in San Gimignano and in the car I pointed out <you don’t have a British accent> <no> he says <I am from Boston I am a doctor, I thought gastroenterology>. Well, I thought, Boston is where Harvard is and it’s the city of the Nobel prizes , this must be some guy! And in fact when he sent me his article about alcohol consumption I finally understood why doctors say “it depends” when asked what the advised amount is.

The whole article can be found here :https://bit.ly/2SQKqGd

At last, even though of scientific content, it is written so as to be understood by all of us.

 

MEN, WOMEN, AND ALCOHOL

Women-and-wine-Violante -in -a wine-tasting

A 80kg male who drinks wine regularly and has just consumed two glasses of wine during a proper meal eaten leisurely over two hours will have a BAC level that is dramatically lower than that of a 60kg woman who drinks only occasionally and has polished off those two glasses quickly without eating.

Scientists have not understood yet why but women break down less alcohol in the stomach, which means that more passes into the small intestine where it is absorbed. The end result is that a woman, despite drinking an equal quantity of alcohol at the same rate as a man, will have a higher BAC

2016 vintage of Il Drago e le 8 Colombe Super Tuscan

2016, another 5 star vintage, and finally one that is perfect for wines apt for long ageing. Il Drago e le 8 Colombe an auteur bottle for great wine lovers

Il-Drago-e-le-8-Colombe 2016

In 2016 the vegetative cycle of the vines was very very long: the vines budded 15 days sooner than usual, but the harvest took place in October, as was usual traditionally. This was because the ripening of the grapes was gradual and slow: something rare during this era of climatic changes that gave great joy to the producers. In fact the ripening of the grape skin (poliphenolic) and that of the pulp (technological) went hand in hand and this circumstance always produces extremely elegant wines.

THE NAME IL DRAGO E LE 8 COLOMBE

This wine was born to celebrate the only man in Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s wineries, my husband Carlo Gardini. These wineries are the first in Italy to be all female staffed. But Carlo is however always present with his advice and his passion for great red wines, that sometimes, are completely different to those that I love.

THE STORY OF IL DRAGO E LE 8 COLOMBE

“Il Drago e le 8 Colombe” was originally “Il Drago e le 7 Colombe” and was renamed with the arrival of our consultant wine maker Valérie Lavigne. On that occasion the blend too was changed, today it is a 60% Sangiovese 20% Merlot and 20% Sagrantino. Three varieties that give different characteristic to the wine: the Sangiovese gives elegance, the Merlot pleasantness, and the Sagrantino increases the structure. All the grapes have been grown on the state, following the organic regime, and are picked, vinified and aged in barrel separately to be assembled before bottling.

This is a small production between 8,000-16,000 bottles per year, a masterpiece. Often this type of wine is called Super Tuscan because although it doesn’t belong to any appellation is aims at high quality, even though with freedom with respect to the rules that are enforced by the DOC appellations. For this reason Donatella Cinelli Colombini has inserted among the varieties for the Il Drago e Le 8 Colombe the Sagrantino, typical variety used in Umbria, its administrative boundary lines, end just about 10 km from the Fattoria del Colle vineyards.

                                                                       
Cinelli Colombini
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