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Maturation of wine in cask, “Italian style”

With the rise in temperatures and the consequences in the vineyard and cellar, it becomes urgent to rethink the barrels and the Maturation of wine in cask, “Italian style”

botti-tonneau-montalcino-brunello-_CasatoPrimeDonne

barrels tonneaux Montalcino CasatoPrimeDonne

by Donatella Cinelli Colombini

For what regards the maturation of wine in cask, “Italian style”, we go from one exaggeration to another. After  years of wines with too much wood we went to the fashion of no oak at all.

To understand which is the right way the Italian Union of Wines through the Wine Corriere has organized a survey and then a conference during the exhibition in Milan.

WOODEN TASTE: MANY SAY THEY HATE IT BUT IN REALITY IT IS NOT TRUE

The results were intriguing, stimulating and even a little embarrassing.

In fact there is a fundamental contradiction: the consumer says he appreciates one type of wine but then he buys another. He thinks he prefers dry wines but then he is more happy to put in the glass those with residual sugar. He claims to hate barriques and “Parker style” wine but then chooses the one with an oak imprint to which he is accustomed.
Contradiction that, from my experience, also affects many tasters formed in the era of late 20th century style wines.
This is not a small problem especially for wines with long aging in cask like Brunello.

Vin Santo del Chianti 2008 Fattoria del Colle

Donatella Cinelli Colombini presents her Vin Santo del Chianti 2008 Fattoria del Colle aged in caratelli for eleven years .

A small selection of very few bottles for lovers of sweet wines

First of all Vin Santo is part of the history of Tuscany. In ancient times all the noble families had caratelli (small barrels) in which the Vin Santo aged in the attic of their Villas. Vin Santo was always served at important banquets .
We do not know when the production of this sweet golden and refined wine was born, it surely existed already in Siena in the fourteenth century. But it was precisely during a banquet that the Vin Santo ceased to be called “vino pretto” that means pure and took on its present name.

The legend

According to legend, this happened in 1439 after the Council of Florence. That meeting was attended by the Greek Cardinal Giovanni Bessarione who, tasting it, exclaimed “this is the wine of Xantos! ” in reference to the island where sweet wines were produced at the time particularly appreciated. Hence, since then xantos wine became  Vin Santo and the name  remained to indicate the delicious Tuscan nectar.

Fattoria del Colle too, has its vinsantaia, it is  in the attic of the sixteenth-century villa. So, crossing the winery and climbing a staircase you can reach the attic where in winter it is very cold and in summer it is very hot. Here are the small barrels  in which the golden liquid, squeezed from the dried grapes, remains to ripen for over ten years.
Last year the Vin Santo del Chianti of Fattoria del Colle received 93/100 from Robert Parker/Wine advocate. A success that we hope will be repeated in the future.
We recommend not to dip cookies in Vin Santo. It is a popular practice very widespread in Tuscany but absolutely harmful because it alters the aroma and taste of the wine.

Music and wine: How sounds make you sell more

Music and wine: How sounds make you sell more

Among the senses the strongest is  sight but also  hearing has a decisive influence on  taste and even on the purchase of wine with the “Lafite effect”.  Music and wine: How sounds make you sell more

 

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Refined music drives you to buy expensive wines, relaxing music decreases the frustration of those queuing in front of the register, whereas a very well-known music distracts you from buying.

So, the rhythm accelerates consumer movements between the shelves and decreases sales. Here, in a nutshell, how sounds can change the attitude of wine lovers inside a wine bar or in the shop of the cellar.
That’s why spreading the sounds of an opera helps an Italian winery to sell more and more expensive wines.

THE NEUROMARKETING OF VINCENZO RUSSO AND THE USE OF MUSIC TO SELL WINE

Professor Vincenzo Russo, the most experienced Italian neuromarketing expert,  teaches us, through Trebicchieri – economic weekly by Gambero Rosso, how  sounds influence the purchase of wine.

It should be assumed that hearing has an “adaptive function” because it is closely connected with three parts of the brain. We have the limbic system in which emotions reside, the prefrontal Cortex that makes us feel pleasure and motor Cortex that, as the name says, commands movement. The first two are the real pleasure centers in all of us, in fact they are the parts of our brain that react “euphorically” when we eat food that we like, and consequently when we  have sex or we use drugs.

DRY JANUARY? BETTER NOT

Italian consumers and wine culture

Is abstinence from alcohol better than education for moderate drinking? The British say yes to dry January and perhaps even the French. In Italy no

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

It must be said that in Italy the problem of alcohol abuse is much lower than in other consumer countries. If in fact in Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Hungary, Serbia, Romania, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Belarus, Lithuania and Portugal the average alcohol consumed in a year is 12.5 liters per person. In Italy it is between 5 and 7 liters as in Japan, Iceland or China. It must be known , in the ranking of the OECD countries on alcohol abuse, in the first place are the USA, and Italy is in last position.
However wine is only 12% of the total alcoholic beverages consumed by about 2.3 billion people in the world. To alcohol should be added drugs which are often used in a combined way, especially by young people, to accelerate the euphoric effect.

The 10 most expensive  cognacs in the world

Prices from  2 million to a modest 5,000 dollars per bottle, these are the jewel cognac sto store in a safe: Prestigious bottles for a very long ageing By Donatella Cinelli Colombini [caption id="attachment_45828" align="alignleft" width="204"] Il-Cognac-più-costoso-del-mondo.-Enrico-IV-Dudognon-Heritage-Cognac-Grande-Champagne-2-milioni-1-230x300[/caption] The most expensive is  Henri IV Dudognon Heritage Cognac Grande Champagne costing  2 million and is, deservedly, in the list of the most costly in the world. It has been produced since 1776 by the direct descendants of the King and it ages in barrel for more than 100 years The bottle is covered in 24 carat gold and with 6.500 diamonds. The question is who will...

The future of luxury wine is female

They are oriented to organic wines, sustainable and fair but affordable, they have a spending potential that increases, also in wine, along with their income and social role. Hence the future of luxury wine is female
By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Wine intelligence, the mega agency of analysis on wine market, based in London, highlighted how women are growing among consumers also in the segment of premium wine, consequently those over 15€ per bottle.

 

MEN CONSUME 64% OF PREMIUM WINES IN USA.

THE FUTURE OF LUXURY WINE IS FEMALE

So, to turn this trend into business, producers and retailers need to believe and increase the female segment with the same commitment as for the Chinese market and towards  young people because it seems the opportunities for growth are similar.
In the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Japan, China and in Australia likewise, women buy less expensive bottles than men. Only 35% spend more than 20 Dollars while for males this share rises to half of those who usually consume wine.

Furthermore the report “US Premium Wine drinkers 2019”, tells us that almost 64% of wines over $15 per bottle are purchased by men. Out of 22 million US premium wines consumers only 8 are women.
Women have lower incomes as well highlighted by the gender gap, but also less confidence in their choices for which they are cautious, even in spending.
Finally there is also the component of the habit whereby sommeliers and maitre’s give to male customers the list of wines at the restaurant.

Cabernet is the most cultivated but not the most loved

Cabernet is the most cultivated grape in the world but is it also the most loved? A research on Wine searcher shows that wines of Bordeaux blend are the favorites ones

By Donatella Cinelli Colombini

Cabernet is the most cultivated but not the most loved

 

The big data on wine, the computer analysis on one of the most boundless existing portals in the world, Wine searcher, allows you to understand which grape is really liked by wine lovers – Cabernet or Bordeaux blend?

 

CABERNET IS THE MOST CULTIVATED GRAPE, BUT THE BORDEAUX BLEND IS THE MOST LOVED.

An exercise that Don Kavanagh enjoyed doing with his typical irony starting from a question: “Cabernet is the most cultivated grape in the world, but is it the favorite?” Is it more liked single vines or Bordeaux blend?
In the end the victory of the Bordeaux blend is overwhelming but with many distinctions Country by Country.
In the USA, Cabernet (14%) is particularly popular, but the Bordeaux blend is second in consumers’ interest with only half a percentage point of distance. In the United Kingdom, however, the Bordeaux blend wins, followed by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Champagne and Rhône Valley with Cabernet only seventh.

Chianti Superiore DOCG 2017

2017 the lowest yield vintage ever brought to the winery gives us a Chianti Superiore, really superior, at Fattoria del Colle in the south of Tuscany

2017 will remain in the history of European viticulture as the year of the great frost. At the end of April, for three consecutive nights an arctic cold wave crossed the continent reaching as far as Spain and Sicily and destroying the buds that, that year, had sprouted 20 days in advance. The photos of Burgundy and Collio with the fires in the vineyards were on the front pages of the newspapers to show the heroism of the winemakers who fought, unfortunately, unnecessarily.
Who, like us, was saved from the frost, then had to fight with the drought and the summer heat that reached 43°C for ten days in a row. The rains of late August and September literally saved the vines and the harvest.
The last scourge was the wild boar which, driven by thirst, also ate the unripe grapes.

What makes the world of wine change

Climate, more value and less volume, Brexit, China, Eastern Europe and Asia. But let’s look at the lists of British wines to discover the new trends

 

What makes the world of wine change

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

The colossus of Wine Intelligence marketing surveys, excellently commented by the Italian WineMeridian, takes stock of the 5 elements that are changing the wine sector. I’ve added some comments.

CHANGE OF THE CLIMATE


The vineyards go north and go to the mountains. Everything becomes excessive: heat, typhoons, fires, floods…. But in spite of this, the number of good harvests and the quality of the wines is constantly growing also in the historical areas.

Italian restaurants with high online approval

Customer satisfaction for Italian restaurants appreciated on the web exceeds 85%, especially the reception and less the price. On top are Tuscany, Umbria and Veneto. 

Ristoranti-Italiani

Italian restaurants with high online approval

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

The Travel Appeal report analyses every year the reviews in the main online tourist portals that for half concerns  restaurants. In the period September 2018-August 2019 customer ratings were over twenty million and therefore constitute a very large sample of evaluation.

The best Italian restaurants in the world

Passerini in Paris wins, second place for Don Alfonso in Toronto and bronze medal for Heinz Beck’s Tokyo venue. Talk of the best Italian restaurants in the world

Migliori-ristoranti-italiani-nel-mondo-Giovanni-Passerinie

The- best -Italian -restaurants- in- the- world-Giovanni-Passerini

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

The ranking 50 Top Italy with the best 50 Italian restaurants in the world is available online and is the first result of the LSDM project (historical congress of kitchen author that takes place in Paestum) curated by its creators, Barbara Guerra and Albert Sapere, along with the journalist Luciano Pignataro.

 

Brunello 2015 Donatella Cinelli Colombini

A huge five-star vintage of Brunello that began to be celebrated even before entering the market and combines power, elegance and longevity

Vendemmia Brunello 2015 Montalcino

Casato Prime Donne Montalcino Sangiovese harvest

The climatic trend shows the typical characteristics of the best Brunello with rainy winter and spring that have hydrated the soil, very hot July that has blocked a vegetative development determining a reduced size of the grapes, August with thunderstorms alternating with hot days, September with very strong thermal variation between night and day that have favoured the synthesis of perfumes.

A script that repeats itself for all the great vintages of Brunello and seems to show that global warming is an authentic luck for the Montalcino vineyard because it multiplies the five-star vintages and raises the quality level to highs never reached in the past.

The 100 most famous names in the world of wine

Few Italians among the 100 best known names of wine Gaja, Masseto, Onellaia, Sassicaia, Solaia, Tignanello and Zenato. At international level all the big ones

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

The complete list is in Social Vigneron, one of the most influential and best made blogs in the world with an army of followers: 397 thousand on Twitter, 23 thousand on Facebook, 46 thousand on Instagram. His author, Julien Miquel is a winemaker, communicator, influencer really brilliant. In 2015 his blog won the title of Wine blog award that is the best wine blog in the world.
For this reason I advise you to follow him to have a more international point of view but also to learn.

The influencers of wine to keep an eye on

Who wants to create his blog and who wants to be always informed about the news of the world of wine: here are the Top Wine influencer

 

 

Di Donatella Cinelli Colombini

The list comes from Sommelier Choice Award and therefore expresses the point of view of sommeliers, that is of a very, very demanding and English-speaking internet users. I have summarized some concepts but I invite you to consult the original article for all the information.
The influencers are of increasing importance, they create a trend, they guide the choices of consumers, especially young consumers. Their target is less elite than the great gurus, the super tasters of the Wine Spectator, Robert Parker and similar.

They speak a simpler language and not strictly related to the quality contained in the bottles. In the world of wine critics, infuencers are looked upon with great suspicion and sometimes with explicit condemnation mainly because social media channels do not have the same ethical codes of journalism and in fact are teeming with fake news and “viral incompetents”. Also the great Luciano Ferraro expressed himself with very tough terms against the influencers during the forum of young wine organized during the Milano Wine Week 2019. In fact, almost at the top of the list there was also his Divine blog that is really trendy.

                                                                       
Cinelli Colombini
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